Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
